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Europe Diary 2015 // Cinque Terre, Italy (Part 2)

April 24, 2016 by Hillary 3 Comments

As my blog posts have been fewer and father between, there haven’t been as many visitors to Nutrition Nut. And that’s okay with me. If you happen to stop by, then I am grateful; but these Europe Diary posts (that I’m taking my sweet time to write) are honestly to capture the adventure that my mom and I shared last fall. She has been gently nudging me for part two of the Cinque Terre posts since the day I posted part one, so I hope this brings at least a smile to my mama’s face — this one is for you.

Cinque Terre

For our second and final full day in Cinque Terre, we wanted to hike the infamous trail the connects all “five lands.” This trail is a tourist hot spot, but since we were visiting during the end of the busy tourist season, we anticipated less of a crowd. Before our trip, we did our research on said trail. I thought, for sure, we would hike the entire route: starting at one town and finishing at the opposite (you can walk in either direction). I think it wasn’t until we were chatting at breakfast at Amandolevanto B&B, that we decided do to part of it (you can start and stop in any of the towns). So, we decided to take the train from Sarah’s place – after enjoying another homadmade breakfast on the patio – to Corniglia.

The skies were a bit dreary and grey that morning, so I wore an interesting ensemble of layers, as we didn’t know how the weather would turn. Each of the five towns has a ticket booth for the trail, as it costs a small bit of change to experience the trail through this Italian national park. We bought a couple of tickets and then wandered around amongst other foreign travelers who wore the  same curiosity — where does the trail begin?

Cinque Terre

Start of the trek — let’s pretend my eyes are open ;)

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Darling Corniglia (excuse the blurry photo)

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Just too sweet!

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Not before long, we were climbing rock stairs escaping the town of Corniglia — headed “north.” If you read about each of the trails, the source will typically indicate their level of difficulty. Supposedly, the two trails/hikes we did were the toughest… and the hike from Monterosso to Levanto is the hardest. Tough is a relative term, however, so you don’t always know what to expect from a travel guide or fellow tourists’ accounts. Even for two fit people, I have never in my life been on such a hike. Holy stairs!

We took our time for many reasons: 1) we didn’t have anywhere else to be — this was it!; 2) these trails need your undivided attention: you were either huffing and puffing up 198 stairs, or you were stopping to let hikers pass because the trail is incredibly narrow; and, 3) to take all the pictures, duh!

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

I think this is Corniglia with Manarola in the background.

Writing this post brings back emotions (or is that you, PMS?). While I’ve stated that our Europe trip, as a whole, is one of the top five events in my life thus far, this day, and this hike, was unlike anything I have ever experienced. Sure, I’ve hiked plenty – it is one of my pastimes – but adventurous is not my middle name, and this pushed me out of my comfort zone.

As Mom and I trekked high above the sea on the cliffs of the Italian coast, my mom expressed that there would never be trails like this in the U.S. In some places (many places!), the trails deemed rather risky/unsafe. As in no hand rails and uncomfortably narrow paths. It was all part of the huge adventure I suppose.

We finally hit the summit that precedes the mysterious descent into Vernazza. You stop to pinch yourself a few times and soak it all it. I want to say the two legs of the hike took roughly a couple hours each; but like I said, we weren’t on race against the clock.

Cinque Terre

Vernazza, at lunchtime, was a tourism madhouse. I cannot even begin to imagine what it is like during the height of the season. Hungry from hiking, we ordered a couple pieces of fresh vegetable focaccia bread from a hole-in-wall spot (a line outside the door was our indication that it was worth a few of our Euros). The sun came out to join us as we enjoyed our fresh bread by the water. We were on a mission to get to the “castle” in the photos, so we asked around trying to find the route there. Naturally, it turned out to be a zig-zag path of narrow staircases through homes (?) and shops and restaurants. What a view!

Before leaving Vernazza, we got gelato cones… and hence, where our trip hashtag emerged: #willwalkforgelato2015

Basil gelato in Vernazza, you only live once! #YOLO

Cinque Terre

With the warm sun out to join us, leg two was a challenge. We did not bring enough water with us and paid for it via dehydration. There really isn’t anywhere along the trails to get water, so bring plenty (regardless of the time of year) if you plan to do the hikes.

The only bummer about this incredible day was that we didn’t pack our swim suits. The weather tricked us in the morning with cool, grey skies, but by mid-afternoon/evening – after a full day of hiking in the sun – I was this close to skinny dipping in the Mediterranean… this close. Gah, was it tempting. #onlyregret

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Ciao, Vernazza — you are beautiful!

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Step by step… to Monterosso.

Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare

Cinque Terre

I just want to dive in!

Cinque Terre

When we finally made it into Monterosso al Mare, via the stunning descent through cascading vineyards, we b-lined for hydration. Then we moseyed through the main streets of Monterosso, stopping in a few local shops (I was this close to buying a pair of Italian leather sandals, but they didn’t have my size) and Wonderland Bakery before we caught the train back “home” to Levanto.

Cinque Terre

If I remember correctly, we scurried on back to the B&B before heading downtown for our final night in Italy. We spent a good while making circles around the blocks (as if we hadn’t walked enough already) in search of a restaurant we remembered from the night prior. Caprese salad, white fish with citrus sauce, and a walnut ravioli dish… sounds about right. I excused myself from the table at the end of our meal because… this sunset. I ran to the beach (across the street) and whipped out my camera. This ending, to this day. It was magical, and I practically had to hold back the happy tears. I pinched myself to make sure it wasn’t all a dream. #bestdayever

I would go back to Cinque Terre in a heartbeat… in heartbeat… and I plan to — won’t you join me?

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Europe Diary 2015 // Cinque Terre, Italy (Part 2) #cinqueterre #italy #travel #bucketlist

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Catching up on Europe posts?

Europe Diary 2015 // Cinque Terre, Italy (Part 1)

Europe Diary 2015 // The Calanques (Marseille, France)

Europe Diary 2015 // Aix-en-Provence, France

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 1

Paris // Where We Stayed

Paris Bucket List

Our Europe Itinerary

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Cinque Terre, Cinque Terre Hike

Europe Diary 2015 // Cinque Terre, Italy (Part 1)

March 28, 2016 by Hillary 1 Comment

So France was incredible and all, but then we hopped on over to Italy, and well… it stole our hearts.

Levanto Italy

Our journey from Aix-en-Provence to Levanto, Italy was a long one. It took a full day – from sun up to sun down – and four (yes, four!) separate train rides. (We don’t recommend doing this.) We “wasted” an entire day traveling, but it was so worth it. Of course we had our one and only travel hiccup this day, on our last leg of the trip:

We were all prepared to exit the train in Levanto; we were listening closely to the loudspeaker announcing the stops, as the intervals between towns were short and frequent. There were many travelers standing in the aisle of this unusually layed out train (picture small square rooms with sliding doors on one side with a narrow walking isle on the other (claustrophobia, ick). We figured these people were also going to depart. Apparently, they were simply stretching their legs and chatting because before we knew it, the train had stopped in Levanto and was taking off again! Insert: Hillary freaking out. Like verbally freaking out and panicking.

The friendly middle eastern stranger who was sitting with us in our claustrophobic room on the train tried to calm us down in his broken English. He explained that we could get off in the next town, get another train ticket, and make it back to Levanto easily. Oh bother. Luckily, the next town (Monterosso) wasn’t far down the track. We managed to buy two more train tickets from the impatient woman at the ticket window who was trying to close up for the night. There was a bit of confusion on the platform, but we got on the train that was headed in the direction of our original destination, phew. But, at this point, we were late. The host of our B&B kindly offered to pick us up at the train station. Well, shoot. For some reason our cell phones were not working in the train, so the young woman sitting next to me – who was covered in paint from head to toe, mind you – let my mom use her cell phone to make a local call to our host, Sarah.

train

View from one of our trains between Aix-en-Provence and Levanto

Ahhh, we made it. Sarah – even more darling than she appeared in her airbnb photo – greeted us with big hugs. We tossed our luggage into her small SUV and made the four minute drive up the hill to her house/bed and breakfast: Amandolevanto B&B.

Levanto Italy

Side Note: Cinque Terre was at the top of our destinations list when planning our trip around Europe (travel logistics and headaches aside). When we were researching lodging, we ended up choosing to stay in Levanto which is technically not one of the five villages that make up Cinque Terre (translation: “The Five Lands”). Levanto is just north of Monterosso (see map). We were very happy that we ended up staying in Levanto, as it is much less touristy than the popular villages, but still close enough to have easy access to the bucket list travel destination.

Even though it was late, Sarah gave us a thorough introduction to her B&B — it was a such as warm welcome; we felt comfortable immediately. We crashed in our bed after an exhausting day of travel and woke up to breakfast on on the patio. Sarah made us eggs to order, and served homemade pastries with homemade jam, fresh fruit and yogurt (and we had access to an espresso machine in the foyer of the B&B at all times). We enjoyed chatting with the other guests, Debbie – a single woman from somewhere in the southern U.S. – and Summer and Mike, a darling young couple from Chicago. Each morning, we would share what we all had planned for the day and talked travel in general. Plus, Sarah would offer us tips through her contagious smile. She was such a doll!

Our first full day in Italy, we decided to “take it easy” and get to know Levanto. Sarah’s B&B is not downtown, but the walk to downtown and the water is very doable (12-15 minutes). We felt very comfortable doing it at night, too, as there were plenty of street lights and sweet Sarah convinced us it was safe.

We moseyed around the shops of Levanto and ate a piece of fresh foccacia for lunch in the park before walking to Bonnasola, the town just north of Levanto. A young gentleman who my mom had chatted with one of our bus rides in Aix recommended we visit this town (where some of his family lives). Why not! The walk to Bonnasola is completely flat and goes through several, long dark tunnels through the cliffs that are solely for pedestrians and bikers.

Bonnasola felt very sleepy when we arrived; perhaps it was “siesta time”, but everything seemed closed for the middle of the afternoon. Except for the gelato shop, thank goodness! We wandered around the narrow streets and then made the leisurely walk back to Levanto. We stopped to dip our toes in the Ligurian Sea. If it had been a few degrees warmer, I would have been all in. The clear water was inviting even with overcast skies.

We made the brief “hike” back home to freshen up, but not before long, we were on our way back down through Sarah’s darling neighborhood to find dinner downtown. It was probably lack of sleep, but I wasn’t feeling 100 percent, so we stopped into a pharmacy to see if we could find a natural cold remedy. Hello handsome Italian pharmacist. I left with a box of a natural orange fizzy supplement similar to Emergen-C)… which I need to find because it was excellent.

Next stop: dinner at an authentic family-owned restaurant. I had the most delicious pesto pasta (Did you know pesto originated from Genoa in the Ligurian region? Basil pesto was everywhere!) The staff didn’t speak great English, but we had a flavorful meal and enjoyed watching the waiter filet fish to order in three minutes flat — quite a skill!

Levanto: you were lovely.

Levanto Italy

Beach in Bonnasola, Italy (north of Levanto)

Levanto Italy

Levanto Italy

View from our room – the lush Italian countryside

Levanto Italy

Amandolevanto B&B: we can’t say enough good things!

Levanto Italy

Breakfast (eggs made to order, fresh pastries & homemade jam) each morning – al fresco!

Levanto Italy

Downtown Levanto

Levanto Italy

Bike shop photo for Dad

Levanto Italy

Fishing lessons

Levanto Italy

Napping by the sea

Levanto Italy

Active is the way of life

Levanto Italy

Little “cars” everywhere

Levanto Italy

Levanto

 

Levanto Italy

Bonnasola

Levanto Italy

Levanto Italy

Messy, melting gelato

Levanto Italy

Levanto Italy

Levanto Italy
Levanto Italy

Levanto Italy

Finding the perfect rocks to take home a souvenier

Europe Diary 2015 // Cinque Terre, Italy (Part 1) #cinqueterre #liguria #travel

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Catching up on Europe posts?

Europe Diary 2015 // The Calanques (Marseille, France)

Europe Diary 2015 // Aix-en-Provence, France

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 1

Paris // Where We Stayed

Paris Bucket List

Our Europe Itinerary

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Amandolevanto B&B, Bonnasola, Cinque Terre, Levanto

Europe Diary 2015 // The Calanques (Marseille, France)

March 9, 2016 by Hillary 2 Comments

Catching up on Europe posts?

Europe Diary 2015 // Aix-en-Provence, France

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 1

Paris // Where We Stayed

Paris Bucket List

Our Europe Itinerary

The Calanques

Friday night, we had decided to take a day trip to the coast; so, Saturday morning we got up early to stroll the large weekend farmer’s market in town before hopping on a bus to Marseille. After leisurely making our way to each vendor at the market and grabbing a savory spinach and chevre crepe to go, we walked to the bus station and got on the bus with daily commuters for a quick 30-minute ride to the bigger city of Marseille.

As soon as we arrived at the large bus/train station in this unfamiliar city, my anxiety started to creep up and it unfortunately decided to hang around for much of the day. For this reason, I did not enjoy Marseille as much as I probably could have. It was a busy place, and noticeably dirty. For some odd reason – despite already spending time in Paris and Aix – the fact that I was a virgin foreigner got to me, and I felt so so far away from home. Mom and I walked the mile or so from the station down to the harbor where we were told we could purchase tickets for a boat tour of Les Calanques. The next tour didn’t leave for a couple of hours, so after buying our tickets, we sauntered by the water and endless row of outdoor restaurants. Seeing as it was Saturday, equal parts families and tourists populated the streets.

Once we boarded the cruise boat, my anxiety started to fade. I was on the Mediterranean for heaven’s sake — pinch me! We spent the next two-ish hours on a windy boat ride to see a coastal landmark of Southern Provence.

The magnificent calanques (“fjords”) of the Mediterranean coast are an essential highlight of any tourist trip to Southern Provence.

A spectacular series of looming white limestone rocks scored through with deep valleys, they’re the backdrop to a unique ecosystem, colourful fishing villages, peaceful creeks with intense, clear turquoise water and a wide range of sporting activities. The calanques (pronounced “kalonk”) extend for almost 12.4 miles south-east along the coast between Marseille and Cassis. [source]

The Calanques

The boat trip was uneventful, yet entirely relaxing. It was hard to hear the guide talk (in a handful of different languages) over the speaker, so we simply enjoyed the smooth ride, the turquoise water, the blue sky, the sailboats, and the adventurists. As you’ll see in the photos, there were hikers, kayakers, stand-up paddleboarders, dare-devil rock climbers (!!), sun bathers, and beach bums. Hard to believe this was the end of September!

If I were to visit again, I would love to hike the trails along the water to one of the secluded beaches and soak up some sun in my bikini. Wouldn’t you!?

By the time we departed the boat, it was early evening and I had still had no interest in exploring Marseille (sorry Mom!), so we got on the next bus “home” to Aix. A day of snacks had us salivating for a full-on French meal, as it would be our last dinner in France after all. We moseyed up and down the cobblestone streets, perusing the menus of various restaurants as they set-up for their Saturday night dinner crowds. We settled on La Tomate Verte and a made a reservation on the spot with a young gentlemen who spotted us eyeing his menu from the back of the house. Since Europeans eat late (in comparison to Americans), we wandered down the street to another restaurant for a drink. I slurped down a mojito in five minutes flat; I needed it after fighting nerves all day.

We thoroughly enjoyed our last French, bistro-style, dinner at “The Green Tomato”; perhaps it was the adorable wait staff (polite, young 20-something, sophisticatedly-dressed men) that was the icing on the cake.

That was Southern France (Aix-en-Provence + a day trip to Marseille). I’d go back to the French coast in the blink of an eye, I would I would.

Up next: Italy, Switzerland, and Sweden!

The Calanques

Ships in the harbor – Marseille, France

The Calanques

French architecture – I can’t even!

The Calanques

Sailboats on the horizon

The Calanques

The Calanques

That color though!

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

Hikers + kayakers

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

SUPing in the sea

The Calanques

Do you see the climbers!?

The Calanques

The Calanques

More crazy climbers!

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

The Calanques

Europe Diary 2015 // Cruising The Calanques #travel #marseille #france

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Have you ever been to the Mediterranean Sea?

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: The Calanques

Europe Diary 2015 // Aix-en-Provence, France

March 8, 2016 by Hillary 2 Comments

In any given week, I’ll have flashbacks from my mother-daughter European adventure this past fall. I ask myself, “Wait… did that really happen!?” Sometimes, well most of the time, it feels like a dream. It was (cheesy as it is) a dream come true. When I get to reminiscing about traveling around Europe with my mom for two weeks, I can clearly distinguish it as one of the top five events of my life thus far.

Aix-en-Provence

I have left y’all hanging since sharing the magic that is Paris (and Parisian pastries). That was only the first destination, however — just when the party was getting started. I think I have procrastinated writing these posts, again and again, because I admittingly hate to think that this trip of a lifetime is something of the past. Then my rational side talks to my emotions, and reminds me: “Don’t cry because it’s over; smile because it happened.”

After four nights in the romantic city that is Paris, we headed to southern France via a pleasant train ride. This was my first real train ride — the first of many (16!). We arrived in the much smaller city of Aix-en-Provence on Thursday, mid-afternoon. We knew prior to our arrival that we were expected to find our way to our AirBNB rental from the train station, by foot. We were extremely curious about this: why couldn’t we take a bus, or a taxi? The explicit directions from our AirBNB host seemed complicated to us foreign tourists: turn right here on Rue de… make a left at this building… quickly, we figured out why we had to make this trek by foot.

Aix is a medieval city, and our destination was in the middle of Old Aix (downtown) where the streets are so narrow that they are not wide enough for a standard vehicle. So, looking blatantly like tourists straight off a train, tugging our rolling suitcases with one hand and the printed email directions from our host in the other, we finally made it to our home for the next three nights. A pleasant contrast from the grey skies we left behind in Paris, the southern France blue sky and sunshine had turned our cheeks a bit rosy amidst our search through the cobblestone streets.

The hill at mile 12 in a half-marathon race is sort of what it felt like climbing the stairs to our room on the fourth story of one of the ancient Old Aix structures. We muscled our suitcases up the 50-something uneven spiral stairs to the flat where we were greeted by our sweet host, Ines. You would never have assumed the inside ambiance from the appearance of the building that had seen so much history. Ines’s flat was darling — modern decor, with a touch of Asian flair. A banner-less concrete staircase curved up the side of the dining room to the upstairs corridors — unique architecture like I’d never seen before. After a brief introduction with Ines, a work-from-home mother of three, my mom and I ventured out back downtown to stretch our legs after half a day of traveling.

Aix-en-Provence

En route to our AirBNB rental…

Aix-en-Provence

Ines’s home – on the fourth floor

Aix-en-Provence

Inside Ines’s [iPhone photo]

After meandering the confusing streets (rues) on Thursday evening, we eventually decided to grab a few items to munch on for “dinner”; we were both more than ready for simple after eating our way through Paris. Finding fresh bread, fruit, and cheese is hardly a task in France. We took it easy the rest of the night, relaxing in Ines’s comfortable home. This was our first experience using AirBNB, and an “intimate” one at that. We shared the solitary bathroom with Ines and her girls, though with Ines and her girls being away for the weekend, we had the place to ourselves much of the time.

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Friday morning, our first full day in Aix, we had a 9:00am appointment for a walking tour of the city. The go-go-go in Paris must have finally caught up with us because Mom and I both slept through our alarms and woke up five minutes before nine! In complete panic, we brushed our teeth, threw on whatever was on the top of our suitcase, and carefully ran down the spiral stairs. We quite literally ran up the cobblestone streets to the ancient cathedral where we were suppose to meet our guide, Delana. In her email to us, she wrote: “I’ll meet you in front of the big doors of the Cathedral Saint Saveur on Rue Gaston Saporta. I’m sort of tall, sort of blond and sort of middle-aged (if one lives to be 112!). I’ll be sitting just next to the big doors.”

We spent the next three hours with Delana – stylish like a native French woman dressed in a cute Gap chambray dress and Birkenstock sandals with a large tote – as she guided us through the city of Aix, flooding our ears with history of the medieval city. Delana, a Minnesota native, was energetic and lively — exactly what we needed after an abrupt, coffee-less start to our day. We knew our tour was off to a good start when one of the first places she took us was La Brulerie Richelme to sample the best hot chocolate — at 9:00 in the morning. Yep, hot chocolate for breakfast. When in France! The coffee roastery/cappuccino bar was so fantastic that we made a point to go at least twice more. After three hours of an educational and active tour with delightful Delana, we finally sat in the square nearest our starting location, bought Delana an espresso, and compensated her in Euros and many “mercis.” Now we were on our own!

Since we had missed breakfast, aside from the petite cup of decadent sipping chocolate, we were more than hungry and ready for a real meal. We took one of Delana’s recommendations to eat at a cafe run by two sisters who use fresh produce from the local farmer’s markets. We both enjoyed the vegetarian special of the day – a vegetable quiche and salad – as we sat outside the colorful cafe, on one of the sleepier streets.  If I remember correctly, more walking ensued thereafter (most likely gelato, too). We popped into a museum briefly as it was closing up for the evening, and then laughed as we attempted to find a deli we’d stumbled upon the day before. We returned to Ines’s with a few savory delicacies to construct a casual dinner since we had a substantial mid-day meal.

Seeing as it was Friday night, Ines’s boyfriend was visiting, so we got to converse with him before they took off for the weekend. When talking with Ines and her handsome beau, we were inspired to visit the Calanques. So, the next day we were off to Cote d’Azur (to be continued…)!

Tidbits About Aix

It is a university town, and that is apparent with its younger inhabitants

Contrastly, it is considered bourgeoisie, so it has an upper class, ritzy feel

The sky is SO blue! They seriously joke that people move from dreary, grey, rainy Paris to Southern France because of this upgrade in climate

Melon agriculture is huge in Provence, so you will find melon everything — including the iconic cookie of Aix, the Calisson

Farmer’s markets every day — so much yes! This was absolute heaven for us, as evidenced by my photos

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

The narrowest street in Aix!

Aix-en-Provence

The large and lively square near Ines’s place

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

The infamous hot chocolate from La Brulerie Richelme

Aix-en-Provence

Chocolate for breakfast! [iPhone photo]

Aix-en-Provence

Pretty doors — everywhere!

Aix-en-Provence

Aix: “City of a Thousand Fountains”

Aix-en-Provence

[photo courtesy of Mama]

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

A vibrantly fresh lunch with Mama [iPhone photo]

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

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Aix-en-Provence

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Aix-en-Provence

Pouches of Provencal lavender

Aix-en-Provence

We randomly stumbled upon a movie being filmed in one of the squares

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Mama shopping at one of the many markets

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Aix-en-Provence

Cheese, of course, cheese!

Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

Motorcycles at the flower market

Aix-en-Provence

The only type of (3-wheeled) vehicle that will fit down the streets – so cute!

That was Aix in nutshell… take me back, s’il vous plaît.

Photo Diary of Aix-en-Provence, France! #europe #travel

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Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 1

Paris // Where We Stayed

Paris Bucket List

Our Europe Itinerary

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Aix-en-Provence

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3

November 10, 2015 by Hillary 7 Comments

Wednesday was our final, full day in Paris. If we hadn’t done it, seen it, or eaten it yet, today was the day.

Our day began with more flaky pastries and petite espressos. When in France! In all honesty, I was already missing my healthier and heartier nutrient-dense breakfasts. Sugar, white flour, and butter makes poor fuel for an active day of sightseeing.

From our studio, we headed over to the islands to visit Notre Dame. We obviously didn’t do much museum-hopping this trip, yet all of the architecture is history in itself, and something to appreciate; we have nothing of the sorts in the States. It is mind-blowing how these detailed cathedrals/structures were built, and that they still stand hundreds of years later. Religion aside, anyone can appreciate the magnificence of Notre Dame — a Gothic-style church, so ginormous that I couldn’t capture it all in my camera lens.

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

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From Notre Dame, we walked to Luxembourg Gardens. Something that sets Paris (France… Europe?) a part from the United States: people read here; they sit in solitude; they date/hold hands; they draw/paint, they chat over long meals… they have it all right. In America, we might be in a beautiful park, but are glued to technology. In Paris, life is lived differenlty. Romantic, communicative, personal, formal, charming, respectful…

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Adorable old man building a ship out of… junk?

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Kids play, moms gossip.

Paris Day 3

Now later in the afternoon, we finally needed a break from said self-guided walking tour through Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th arrondissement, so we snagged an outside table at Cafe de Flore (recommend by my childhood friend who lived in Paris for a year). Certainly a busy cafe for a Wednesday afternoon, but understandable with its prime corner street location for all the people watching in a classy neighborhood.

Paris Day 3

IMG_0766

Paris Day 3

Nearly every block, we’d stop to peer in the windows of another patisserie

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

Since we were in the area, we walked to oldest bridge in Paris, Pont Neuf — love locks are everywhere! After crossing the bridge, we revisted the Louvre. Again, we didn’t go inside, but explored the grounds. I find it fascinating that there is more than 11 miles of artwork inside. Maybe next time we will say hi to Mona ;)

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3

I will never forget walking through one of the courtyards at the Louvre where a young man was singing acapella. His voice was like nothing we had ever heard before. We stopped in awe, listened, and then Mom put a handful of Euro coins in his open guitar case.

Paris Day 3

It was getting late in the day and we had plans to meet up with my mom’s college girlfriend (who just happened to be in Paris) and go on an evening Seine River Cruise (free to us courtesy of Cobblestone Paris Rentals). We scurried back to Le Marais via the metro. Mom got a bottle of wine; I got a seedy baguette, grapes, fresh figs, and a lovely round of chèvre with apricot preserves from a fromagerie (where I was scolded – in French – to dare not touch the cheese!).

Back on the metro we go: public transportation isn’t so difficult after all, even in a foreign language. We met my mom’s girlfriend and her boyfriend at the boat near the Eiffel Tower (for location comparison). I wasn’t completely impressed with the cruise (a boat with an upper deck for viewing would have been preferred); nonetheless, I was still in dreamland as I stuffed my face with said figs, chevre, and bread – with tourist chatter and French music in the background – while we floated down the Seine.

The highlight of course was seeing the Eiffel Tower light up at night (now every time I listen to “Die a Happy Man” by Thomas Rhett, I can’t help but smile).

Paris Day 3

That sunset — be still my heart!

Paris Day 3

Paris Day 3
We finished our final day in Paris with a late dinner (just as the Parisians do) with my mom’s college girlfriend and her boyfriend at yet another cafe in Place Sainte Catherine. We laughed all throughout dinner, treasuring the special evening — especially for my mom and her college best friend. 

Paris, je t’aime!

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 3 #travel #paris #notredame

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Cafe de Flore, Europe Trip Diary, Louvre Museum, Luxembourg Gardens, Notre Dame, Paris, Pont Neuf, Seine River Cruise

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2

November 8, 2015 by Hillary 2 Comments

As if our first day in Paris wasn’t busy enough, I think Day Two topped it… at least in terms of walking steps — it was a 25,000+ step day. (I wore a pedometer throughout our trip.)

Mom and I didn’t have any set plans on Tuesday, as we did Monday with the bike tour. We wanted to try to get inside a museum and cross a few things off of our Paris bucket list. Turns out, we crossed off a lot more than we expected in a single day.

First stop, pastries and cappuccinos of course. This time at Manon: again on Rue de Rivoli, a less than 3-minute walk from our studio.

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

It was a cold, drizzly day (thankfully, the only day we got rained on our whole trip); after said light breakfast, we walked down Rue de Rivoli to Hotel de Ville. This is when it really started raining, but nonetheless, we got out our cameras and marveled at this masterpiece of architecture in the blustery rain, as would any first-time-to-Paris tourists.

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

We continued walking through the narrow streets of Le Marais district, directing our umbrella left to right, up and down, as to not whack a passing Parisian on the cobblestone streets. We passed the absurd site that is modern Centre Pompidou on our way to an outdoor farmer’s market, Le Marché des Enfants Rogue. To our dismay, the market wasn’t the attraction we read it to be, so we continued our walk towards our studio.

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Nearing lunchtime (croissants and coffee don’t have much staying power), we found our way to L’As du Fallafel. Despite the rain, there was a long line outside for the to-go walk-up window orders; not in a hurry, we opted for a small table inside the crowded, vibrant, energetic Mediterranean cafe. It didn’t matter that we had eaten falafel plates the previous night, I needed one of these infamous falafels. Best falafel of my life… and friendly service as a bonus. I will remember that warm pita bulging at the seams with more than a half-dozen fried balls of chickpea batter, cabbage slaw, spicy red onion, tomatoes, and tahini that drizzled down each of my fingers. #mostmemorablemeal

We ventured into a free museum in the same vicinity — I can’t remember its name, or frankly what it highlighted. Everything was in French, and therefore difficult to appreciate. It did have pretty gardens, I can tell you that much.

We hopped on the metro and got off at Tuileries Gardens, where we had lunch the day before. The sun decided to come out for a little while here. From the gardens, we walked to the Musée d’Orsay Museum to discover that is was closed that day due to a strike (supposedly Parisians are known for their frequent strikes).

Plan B: keep walking.

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Crossing a bridge on the Seine, we discovered Love Locks!

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

From the general area of the d’Orsay, we walked “up” through Tuileries Gardens, past the Place de la Concorde, and onto the Champs de Elysee. Not exactly our cup of tea, with overpriced designer stores lining the overcrowded street; we dodged through the masses of people, finally making our way to the Arc de Triomph.

While we hadn’t gone to the top of the Eiffel Tower, I wanted to go to the top of something. My claustrophobia was put to the test as we climbed the 284 spiral stairs inside the cement arc. Albeit windy and drizzling rain, I felt all the feelings while standing there admiring Paris from above — the Eiffel Tower, the Champs, Sacré Coeur, you can see it all with the 360 degree view.

Paris Day 2

Place de la Concorde

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2
Paris Day 2
Paris Day 2

Paris

Champs de Elysee

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Rainbow over Sacre Coeur – wow!

Now late in the afternoon, nearly evening actually, we stopped at Ladurée on Champs de Elysee for famous macaroons and the richest hot chocolate with chantilly whipped cream.

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

Paris Day 2

The metro got us back our lovely neighborhood where it was time to start thinking about dinner. Walk, eat, walk, eat, repeat. The theme in Paris, no?

We picked L’Epouvantail just outside Place Sainte Catherine. While reviewing the menu, we met the friendliest American couple who was making a reservation, in person, with the host/owner. We did the same, and then chatted outside on the cobblestone street with the East Coast couple. Restaurants open relatively late in France, so we sauntered across the square to freshen up in our studio before our reservation.

Inside the dimly lit restaurant, we sat at a petite table near our new American friends and chatted with them throughout our meal, asking advice on entrée selections. I had an incredible bowl of sweet potato soup, bread (naturally), and shared a salad with Mom. While the food was above average, the experience was far more memorable. The young host/server/owner was a gem; the single gay man at the adjacent table had us smiling and laughing all night; and the middle-aged couple were delightful and genuine.

Paris Day 2

Flower Shop on Rue de Rivoli

‘Twas a great way to end Day Two in Paris.

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 2 #travel #paris #arcdetriomph

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Europe Trip Diary, Paris

Europe Diary 2015 // Paris, Day 1

November 4, 2015 by Hillary 3 Comments

Paris1

I’ve struggled to get myself to sort through all 1,362 photos I took during our Euro trip. It is almost as if I’ve forced myself to absorb what is happening in the current moment to forget the dream of a vacation my mom and I experienced last month.

Then, I tell myself to stop being ridiculous and remind myself of a favorite quote: “Don’t cry because it’s over; smile because it happened.” Yes, heck yes. This 15-day, once-in-a-lifetime, mother-daughter trip to Europe happened, and it was freaking incredible. I don’t possess the photography skills I so desire, but I have evidence on my camera of this spectacular time to help reminisce on those memories that I’ll cherish for a lifetime.

Paris – our first destination. I wrote about the quaint rental where we stayed here. It was simply a place to rest and recuperate for us as we were go-go-go. When in Paris for only 4 nights, you do what you can do.

We arrived on Sunday, and as exhausted as we were, we did not nap – this trick worked well – and pushed through without resting our eyes. We grabbed our cameras and scarfs and sauntered around our neighborhood. We stumbled upon a lovely park, with fountains, statues, square trees, cuddling couples, pincers, playful children. This was Sunday in Paris. Later, we realized it was Place de Vosges – “the oldest planned square in Paris and one of the finest in the city.”

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

Square-trimmed trees

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

We ate a relaxed dinner al fresco at one of the cafes in Place Sainte Catherine (creamy mushroom pasta and a salad with cheesy toast) before we crashed into bed. We needed as much shut-eye possible as we had scheduled a bike tour around the city with Fat Tire Tours.

But first, coffee cappuccinos and croissants. We walked into a Paul’s within walking distance of our apartment and metro station — only later to find out that Paul’s is the “Starbucks of France.” (fooled us American tourists).

Can’t say enough good things about our excursion with Fat Tire Tours; we literally told every other tourist we talked to about our guided pedaling through Paris. Our tiny, Irish guide – Emer – had a red head full of Parisian history to share with us as we cycled through the Paris streets for the greater part of the morning/afternoon. Helmet-less, we bravely “dominated” the chaotic traffic between our stops at attraction such as Les Invalides, Tuileries Garden (where we stopped for lunch), The Louvre, Place de la Concorde, Eiffel Tower, and more. It felt so good to move after all that traveling the day before. We planned the tour for Monday so that we could revisit sites we enjoyed later during our stay; but, the history lesson, we received was the icing on the cake – enriching our experience in Paris that much more.

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

Lunch in Tuileries Gardens

Paris Part 1

Quick stop in front of the Louvre, where we were given a brief lesson in the Parisian’s fascination with architectural symmetry

Paris Part 1

Dome des Invalides, where the tomb of Napoleon remains today

Following the tour, we wandered the streets of the surrounding arrondissements and headed back towards the Eiffel Tower for those photos all tourists must have. We did not picnic near the Tour Eiffel, nor did we go to the top per our bucket list but we got the gist of its splendor. 

Paris1

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

Paris Part 1

If only I had my running shoes!

Once we’d had enough of the Eiffel Tower (can you ever have enough!?), we hopped on the metro back to our studio to freshen up. Then we headed back out and walked to Chez Marianne (Le Marais) for a Meditteranean dinner — falafel plates of sorts.

We had room for dessert, and so sauntered – in the dark – down Rue de Rivoli, across the River Seine, to the larger of the two Parisian islands in search of Berthillon ice cream. Not far into our hunt, we came across an open window selling the highly recommended ice cream. Single scoops in a cone for us both. It was the first of many ice cream/gelato indulgences during our travels.

And that is how Mom and I spent our first day in Paris (September 21, 2015).

More to come…

Paris Part 1

Europe Diary 2015 // Our 1st Day in Paris #travel #paris #eiffeltower

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Europe Trip Diary, Paris

Yosemite // Year 3

November 1, 2015 by Hillary 4 Comments

P and I are making a Yosemite day trip an annual October tradition, clearly:

2014: Adventure in Yosemite II

2013: Weekending in Yosemite

Except, next time, I think we ought to stay a while and tent camp using The Healthy Maven’s recent Yosemite National Park Travel Guide.

P and I hiked the Mist Trail, about 3/4 of the way to the top of Vernal Falls (the same hike we did in 2013). Instead of climbing all of the steep stairs, however, we headed back down and turned onto the John Muir trail towards Nevada Falls. We decided not to do that full hike either, but enjoyed the scenery while hiking the switchbacks. Three plus hours of solid hiking, no breaks — albeit for a few photos.

The weather on Saturday (Halloween, no less) was spectacular. We have lucked out – three years running – with the most stunning blue skies and autumn colors while visiting the park at the end of October.

Yosemite 2015

Yosemite 2015

Yosemite 2015

Yosemite 2015

Yosemite 2015

Yosemite 2015

If you’ve been to Yosemite, what are your favorite trails to hike?


Weekending in Yosemite National Park // Year 3 #travel #hike

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Yosemite National Park, Yosemite National Park Travel Guide

Paris // Where We Stayed

October 11, 2015 by Hillary 5 Comments

Jetlag is real, y’all.

It took nearly a full week to feel like a normal Californian again – including 7:45pm bedtimes and dreaming of Parisian pastries and Swiss muesli.

I am excited to share photos from the trip of a lifetime with you all here on the blog. It is a vacation/adventure that I will never forget. If I could, I’d snap my fingers and be back in Paris to start the trip all over again. It was that good.

europe

All smiles — Europe, here we come!

I have 1,362 photos on my camera card to review (not including those on my phone nor the 900+ photos my mom took with her camera). Send coffee… or better yet, a cappuccino — many, many cappuccinos.

We left my apartment at 9:00am on Saturday (90-minute drive to the Sacramento Airport for a noon departure) and arrived in Paris on Sunday around 2:00pm. No, it did not take 24+ hours (we jumped 9 hours ahead); but, it surely felt as if it had. We didn’t fly direct: Sacramento — Seattle — Iceland (!) — Paris. Yes, I was tired and slightly cranky by the time we arrived at our sweet rental in the 4th arrondissement (after a 45ish minute shuttle from Charles De Gaulle Airport).

The shuttle dropped us off at the Place Sainte Catherine. I think we both looked at each other with sleepy smiles, “Oh my gosh, we are really here!” Within minutes, our greeter, David, arrived to show us our rental where we’d stay for the next four nights. My mom and I sighed silent sighs of relief when David spoke fluent English (an American from Pennsylvania).

David spent the next the next two hours (What time is it!?) introducing us to our quaint Parisian abode. He was an enthusiastic and informative greeter, doing his best to make us feel at ease, fresh off the plane, in a foreign city.

After our detailed “tour” of our petite room, David graciously guided us on a brisk walk around our new neighborhood – Le Marais district – giving us a history lesson of Paris as he showed us the closest metro station and recommended few of his favorites (ahem Berthillon Ice Cream). A wealth of information he is!

The rental we stayed in is called the Studio on the Square by Cobblestone Paris Rentals. I came across this adorable sleeping space early on during our Europe trip planning. I immediately fell in love and booked it months in advance. The reservation process was quite simple, and the owner, Jennifer, was prompt to respond via email to any questions I had.

Studio on the Square

The studio was just right for me and my mom. Located right off Place Sainte Catherine, it’s on the second floor (up one short flight of spiral stairs) of a quiet residential building. The windows open up to a clean courtyard with potted plants. We felt very safe here, despite being unfamiliar with the area.

Studio on the Square

Place Sainte Catherine — on a quiet morning

Studio on the Square

Marie Antoinette — a press-popular parfumerie next door to the studio’s entrance

The room, small to the American eye, fits one or two quests (with light luggage) comfortably. The studio is equipped with all cooking necessities, including a stove, pots, utensils, and even items like olive oil and sugar. We had planned to make oatmeal some mornings, yet we opted for fresh croissants instead. Hello, we’re in Paris! We did take advantage of the dual washer/dryer hidden in the kitchen cabinets as we predicted laundry being slim the remainder of our travels.

Studio on the Square

We flipped through the resource-full bookshelf, used the phone for free calls, and ignored the TV and DVDs (too much to see, too little time!). On our last evening in Paris, we used the free Seine River boat cruise tickets that we received when reserving the studio – an appreciated perk!

Studio on the Square

Our experience at the Studio on the Square started our Europe adventure off on a good note. My mom and I agreed the location is prime — Place Sainte Catherine is worth a visit in and of itself. We ate at restaurants on the square three out of four nights; it’s simply charming!

From the tasteful decor to the bottle of Bordeaux wine and chocolate upon arrival, the friendly greeter, and communication with all Cobblestone staff, we were very pleased with our stay at Studio on the Square. I am glad I found this gem in the cutest neighborhood in all of Paris (only to which we discovered once we arrived).

Studio on the Square

Merci, Cobblestone Paris, for a cozy, comfortable and pleasant stay!

Disclosure: I was compensated to write this review. However, I personally selected to stay at Studio on the Square by Cobblestone Paris and paid the standard rate for our stay. As always, opinions are entirely my own. 

 >> Jennifer at Cobblestone Paris has offered to give Two Free Seine River Boat Cruise Tickets to anyone who books and mentions Nutrition Nut on the Run. <<

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Berthillon Ice Cream, Cobblestone Paris Rentals, Place Sainte Catherine, Studio on the Square

Bon Voyage!

September 19, 2015 by Hillary 3 Comments

Today is the day! Mom and I are off on our highly anticipated mother-daughter European adventure. Nutrition Nut on the Run will be quiet for the next couple of weeks; but, of course, I will be sharing photo-heavy travel posts upon my return. Until then…

Paris is always a good idea.

Our Paris Bucket List

Explore favorite posts and then some…

Fall Recipes

  • 12 Pumpkin Breakfast Recipes
  • Nutty Paleo Pumpkin Muffins
  • Pumpkin Apple Almond Meal Muffins
  • Pumpkin Cranberry Bread
  • Spiced Apple Buttermilk Pancakes
  • Apple Dijon Vinaigrette

Pumpkin Pancakes

Favorite Workouts

  • Autumn Arms & Abs Workout
  • Booty Burner Tabata Dumbbell Workout
  • Dirty Thirty Dumbbell Workout
  • September Sizzler Pyramid Workout
  • 20-Minute At-Home HIIT Workout
  • 6 HIIT Treadmill Workouts (Running)

Dirty 30 Dumbbell Workout

& also, don’t forget to…

  • Explore my Pinterest Page for (wholesome) foodie and fitness inspiration
  • Follow Along on Instagram — I will definitely be posting photos throughout our travels.

europe

Cinque Terre

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… and Italy seems like a great idea, too!

Ciao!

Filed Under: Travel

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“Anxiety is a symptom, not a diagnosis.” - Dr. “Anxiety is a symptom, not a diagnosis.” - Dr. George Papanicolaou

It’s no secret that I suffer from chronic anxiety and panic attacks. Or at least I don’t intend it to be. Because while there can be a lot of shame and embarrassment around both of these, I know I’m not alone in my experiences. While I’ve leaned toward the more anxious side most of life, my bothersome anxiety has steadily increased since my mid-twenties - some periods being worse than others. 

It’s not a complete surprise that my mental health has taken a dip during my first full gloomy Seattle winter — in the height of a pandemic. 

Here are some ways I have been nurturing my body & mind as I work with a team of practitioners to work on understanding the **root causes** of my panic, and to live with more ease. 

» no coffee (not even decaf)

» meditating regularly - I’m using @insighttimer 

» gentle movement

» weekly therapy sessions

» attempting cold showers (this is hard for me!): if you’re interested, you can research how this impacts the nervous system

» working with a naturopathic doctor to focus on gut + hormone health

» trying a new Rx - a decision that took years of consideration

» lastly, opening myself up to vulnerable conversations/sharing my story and my experiences in efforts to reduce any shame and connect with others 

I am not my anxiety. 

[image: a photo I snapped to send to my mom of my naturally red palm holding my Rx on the first day I took it]
This rare blue sky day in February is having me da This rare blue sky day in February is having me day dreaming about long, light-filled summer days... they’ll be here soon. 

#pikeplacemarket #seattlewashington
Leavenworth, WA • Where To Eat🍴 I was expect Leavenworth, WA • Where To Eat🍴

I was expecting all things beer, brats and pretzels in Leavenworth (not really my jam) 🍺🥨🧀, and while there’s plenty of it, I was delighted to find plenty of delicious eats for my “foodie” taste. 

We went to all of these 3 places more than once during our quick stay - highly recommend! 

☕️ @argonautespressobar: Located at one end of Front Street, this adorable coffee bar has delicious espresso drinks, breakfast items, and the best view! 

🥐 @tumwaterbakery: Incredible pastries, avocado toast on artisanal bread that’s a feast for your eyes... and I’m eager to go back and try their wood-fired pizza! 

🍜 @yodelinbroth: Literally some of the best food I’ve had (ever!), and that’s saying a lot. I had the Yodelin soup with housemade wild PNW halibut bone coconut curry broth, udon noodles, heaps of veggies and wild salmon - it was nourishing to my core as we ate it outside in 30 degree weather. I even bought some of the broth to recreate this meal at home, yum! 

#nutritionnuteats #leavenworthwa
winter wonderland getaway ✔️ We had snow much winter wonderland getaway ✔️

We had snow much fun exploring the picturesque Bavarian town of Leavenworth, WA for a much-needed mid-week getaway to the mountains. 🏔

We stayed in a cozy little cabin @logecamps right on the Wenatchee River (one day I’ll be back to stay at the stunning @phleavenworth), played in Enchantment Park, took a drive to Lake Wenatchee, and discovered some of the best food downtown (I’m saving my food recs for another post).

Nestled between the snow-capped Cascade Mountains with the river running through town, it’s quite magical in the middle of winter. ❄️ I’m already dreaming of heading back for some summer adventures!
I’m sure Koba is wondering why we ever lived in I’m sure Koba is wondering why we ever lived in Florida for two years.

#takemetothemountains #snowday
dog [noun] companion, loyal comforter, playmate, f dog [noun] companion, loyal comforter, playmate, forgiving, loving, energetic, protective, best friend.
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